The Science of Effective Skincare Understanding and Applying Key Concepts

1. Introduction to Skincare Science

Skincare is an integral part of daily personal care routines for much of the global population. While many individuals exhibit tremendous dedication to their skincare regimes and products, unfortunately for these individuals, not all skincare products are equally effective, nor will they all achieve their desired impacts on skin.

Skincare product effectiveness relies heavily on the details of the product, such as its ingredients or formulation, and how that product interacts with the specific environment, skin type, and lifestyle of the user. These factors, combined, create an exceptionally complex milieu.

The following is an exploration of various aspects of skincare science that will build a basic understanding of how to effectively determine the right skincare products while also hoping to provide a greater appreciation for the scientific intricacies of a biologically active organ: skin 1.

The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin and acts as a barrier to the environment, controlling moisture retention and preventing the entry of microorganisms. Alterations to the epidermis can result in a damaged barrier function and a flow of inflammation-associated signals deep into the dermis, which can lead to disrupted homeostasis, aberrant responses, and a variety of skin conditions.

There is now increasing recognition that an individual’s skin microbiome composition is pivotal to the establishment and maintenance of skin health. The health of skin in relation to its microbiome has largely been studied from two aspects: the impact of the skin’s microbiome on skin homeostasis and the health of the skin environment on preserving the skin microbiome 2.

1.1. The Importance of Skincare in Modern Society

Skincare has come to be considered a multilayered social practice. It embodies both health concerns and beauty norms that have taken different forms across time and cultures. While facelifts were once the norm, the growing awareness of skincare as a crucial daily routine is evident.

Societal attitudes towards skincare have changed since the late 2000s 1. Skincare-first approaches have become the de facto standard in beauty, dwarfing the domains of make-up and fragrance. A particular societal trend towards self-care and mental wellness is at the heart of the modern skincare movement.

Faced with the fast pace and anxiety of contemporary cities, there is a desire to slow down, reflect and reconnect with one’s skin, body, and self. Skincare routines have become the new rituals that mediate the relationship between women and their concerns with themselves: ageing, skin health, and beauty standards.

Being and being cared for feel intertwined, inseparable and entangled in the contemporary moment. Having good skin serves as an indicator of self-discipline, workability and habitability in time, just as being mindful is cast as a potential fix for troubling contemporary life 3.

Moreover, the skin is conceptualised as a distinguishing threshold of subjectivity, locality, and worldly engagement. It signifies attachment to place, the self and other bodies. There is a new ecological turn in contemporary subject formation, a relational intimacy with the environment, the built spaces, artefacts, acts, and others.

Body, self, world and sociality are no longer imagined as separate orders, but intertwined at varying scales and rhythms in a time-space continuum. The sartorial, decorative, and textual practices always mediate the relation between the corporeal, social, and imaginary.

They shape the concern for beauty, mantle subjectivity and produce modes of worldly engagement, making it possible to see, feel, want, speak and act in specific ways. The same multi-layered circuitry of practice is able to read the different scales of concern in space and time.

1.2. Basic Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin

Focusing on the fundamental aspects, this section explores the basic anatomy and physiology of the skin. It provides an essential foundation by outlining the structure and functions of the skin, laying the groundwork for understanding skincare practices at a deeper level.

The skin is the largest organ in the body, covering a surface area of approximately 2 square metres in adults and representing about 10–15% of body weight. It is composed of three major tissues: the outer epidermis, the thicker inner dermis, and the dermal-epidermal junction between these two.

The skin develops from the ectoderm germ tissue, differentiating from simple sheets of epithelial tissue into stratified epithelium. The surface epithelium is made up of a stratified keratinized squamous epithelium, while the dermis has collagenous and elastic connective tissues.

In adults, the epidermis consists of five layers: the stratum corneum (sc), the stratum granulosum (sg), the stratum spinosum (ss), the stratum basale or stratum germinativum (sb), and the stratum lucidum (sl).

The sc has a thickened outer layer of dead flattened keratinized cells that are dry and waterproof to prevent excessive water loss. The sg contains elliptical keratinocytes with organelles that secrete keratohyalin granules, which flatten and aggregate keratin filaments.

The ss is composed of small, enlarged polyhedral cells that start the process of keratinization. The sb, adjacent to the dermis, contains a single layer of columnar basal keratinocytes that continually divide and replace keratinocytes lost from the sc.

Pale-staining keratinocytes gradually develop and transform into cuboidal granular cells in the sg and become flattened squamous cells in the sc as they move from the sb to the sc 4 5.

2. Key Ingredients in Skincare Products

A pivotal role in any effective skincare regimen is played by key ingredients in products that cleanse, moisturize, and protect the skin 1. The primary chemical composition of product formulations, rather than the brand name, determines their mechanism of action and efficaciousness.

An understanding of the most commonly used chemicals in skincare products is essential for discrete communication of skincare needs. This can ultimately lead to better decisions in selecting products most compatible with the individual complexion.

Cleansers are generally surfactants in a lotion or gel vehicle. Surfactants function by attaching to both oil and water molecules. In skin cleansing, surfactants are primarily alkaline detergents that emulsify cosmetic residue and sebum on the skin.

This process creates micelles, which can be rinsed away with water. Lotions and creams are composed of emulsions stabilized by surfactants. Oil-in-water emulsions have a substantively watery feel and are better suited for oily skin, while water-in-oil emulsions are thicker, greasier, and provide additional benefit to dry skin.

Because of improved general health and hygiene, in contemporary society there exists a large cohort of women (and a lesser cohort of men) who are preemptively combating skin ageing through the regular application of topical cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

Therefore, a theoretical understanding of how these common cleansers, lotions, creams, and other daily-use products function is critical to assessing their compatibility and limits with respect to maintaining optimal integrity of the epidermal barrier.

2.1. Common Active Ingredients and Their Functions

There are a plethora of skincare products available, making it difficult to navigate the options. Many consumers are limited by basic knowledge of skin anatomy and the purpose of their products. By taking the time to read the product labels, consumers can better understand what is truly in these formulations.

Most importantly, they will know exactly how the products are supposed to work. The efficacy of skincare products hinges on the specifics of the formulation. Therefore, it is just as crucial to understand product ingredients and how they are utilised within products as it is to learn about skin type and condition. With this insight, consumers will be empowered to better choose products that work for them 1.

Ingredients of skincare products serve various functions within formulations. They work synergistically to achieve the desired effect and must be evaluated in relation to one another. In cosmetic formulations, there are two categories of ingredients: functional and active.

Functional ingredients are responsible for the aesthetic attributes of the product (e.g., texture or color), while active ingredients are responsible for the product’s efficacy (e.g., hydration, oil control) 6.

2.2. Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients

Natural ingredients are derived from plants or other natural sources, whereas synthetic ingredients are created artificially using chemical processes. The ongoing debate regarding the benefits and drawbacks of natural and synthetic ingredients in skincare is extensive. Scientific scrutiny of natural and synthetic ingredients reveals key distinctions.

There are natural ingredients on the market with well-documented issues, including toxicity, allergens, efficacy, stability, and irritation. It is very possible to create nonbotanical ingredients with active properties that surpass those of many natural extracts.

Synthetic compounds can outperform natural extracts in terms of irritation potential. Moreover, apart from viticulture, there is a general lack of adherence to sustainable, environmentally friendly practices in the harvesting of many natural ingredients.

Those on the synthetic side often find themselves at odds with a variety of substances in the greenhouse gas policy, fuel, and construction industry, and many of these issues are not restricted to synthetics alone.

Isopropyl palmitate and coconut oil are natural emollients, but the palm oil industry has one of the worst deforestation records. On the other hand, most science proponents have a soft spot for palm oil because of its abundance of food for dietary use.

Some figures put the market share of natural, organic, and eco-friendly skincare products at about 8–10%. There is no question that sustainability needs to be addressed.

3. Understanding Skin Types and Conditions

A common misconception in the world of skincare is that everyone fits neatly into one of the four skin types: oily, dry, combination, or sensitive. But skin is much more complex than just concerns of oil and moisture levels. Genetics play a role in determining skin pigmentation, hair colour, skin thickness, and oil flow, while environmental factors can accentuate skin issues 1.

Differences in skin texture, pore size, and coloration can result from the number of sebaceous glands and the thickness of the epidermis and dermis. Regardless of ethnic or racial background, everyone typically experiences the same skin issues, such as excess oil, dry patches, hair loss, acne, dark circles, abnormal pigmentation, and visible ageing.

However, people have adapted their skincare approaches according to their skin’s distinguishing traits with each concern. It is important to recognise the different characteristics of skin types and the concerns that accompany them.

For example, individuals with oily skin types will experience unwanted surface shine, while the concern for dry skin types is dry, rough patches, so the approaches to treating blemishes are completely different.

3.1. Identifying Different Skin Types

Skin is the largest organ of the human body, and it is divided into 3 major layers: the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. The epidermis provides a waterproof barrier and skin tone, while the dermis contains connective tissue, hair follicles, and sweat glands.

The hypodermis contains fat and connective tissue. Skin type is a classification of skin based on its characteristics such as oiliness, sensitivity, or colour. Different skin types exist among people, and they can change based on age or environment.

Therefore, skin types can be classified into 5 major categories, namely normal skin, dry skin, oily skin, combination skin, and sensitive skin.

Normal skin is generally free of imperfections, with no visible pores, few blemishes, and a smooth texture. Dry skin is dull and rough, with frequent peeling, an itchy feeling, and cracked skin. The pores are barely visible, and the skin looks parched.

Oily skin appears greasy, shiny, and thick, with large pores and many blackheads and whiteheads. Combination skin is a mix of dry and oily skin and tends to have a shiny T-zone, alongside dry cheeks and jawline.

Sensitive skin is itchy, prickly, and rashes and redness often occur after exfoliation, sun exposure, or harsh products. On the whole, there are sufficient criteria to differentiate skin types.

3.2. Common Skin Conditions and Their Causes

Skin conditions can be categorised as either a skin disease or disorder. A disease involves a pathological process with identifiable symptoms, while a disorder is a disturbance of structure or function.

Skin diseases are primarily attributed to endogenous or exogenous factors or pathogens 1. Skin disorders, on the other hand, are usually distinguished by observable changes in texture and color or related to a dermatologic psychosomatic feature. A few common skin conditions are explored here.

Xerosis is a condition caused by either intrinsic or environmental factors or a combination thereof. The intrinsic factors that cause xerosis can be attributed to genetic factors (e.g., mutations in filaggrin); hormonal influences (e.g., menopause); skin structure (e.g., skin folds); and certain medical conditions (e.g., glycosuria, chronic kidney disease, and cancer).

The environmental factors that lead to xerosis can be classified as sun exposure (UV radiations), dry climate, harsh climate (cold weather, high/irregular winds), occupational factors (e.g., frequent hand-wash, prolonged wet-hand exposure, chemical exposure, and heat from soldering process), medications (e.g., diuretics), diet, and smoke exposure.

Acne is a common type of skin disease afflicting individuals during puberty, which emerges from a plethora of endocrine, inflammatory, and proliferative changes. The specific etiological factors that lead to acne development include sex hormones, genetics, hypersecretion of sebum, blockage in pilosebaceous ducts, proliferation of P. acnes, and inflammatory mediators.

The exuberant proliferation of P. acnes within the chin and forehead pilosebaceous ducts emerges as a potential risk factor for developing the disease at the young adult stage. Nontryptophan-based amino acids released by keratinocytes in the pilosebaceous duct have been linked to the development of acne.

4. Developing a Personalised Skincare Routine

Customisation is key to developing an effective skincare routine. In order to customise effectively, it is important to know how to determine your own skincare needs. The first is to assess all personal individual characteristics on the face and body. These would include things like skin type, sensitivity, and skin colour.

The second is to take the previous characteristics into consideration to best respond to the needs of individuals 1. For example, a person with oily skin may estimate skincare with a gel cleanser and oil-free moisturiser. A person with dry skin would want to respond with a cream cleanser and moisturiser with emollients to hydrate and lock in moisture.

Climatic and environmental factors are potentially significant factors influencing how successfully skincare needs are being met. Things to consider include season and environment: humidity levels, temperature; pollution, dirt, dust, etc.; water hardness leading to an imbalance in skin hydration; lifestyle: exercise, drinking, sleeping, smoking, dietary intake, and regularity; and hormonal and health status.

These factors should be taken into consideration and regularly reassessed. As an example, during a warm season with humidity possessing hotter and sunnier days, oily individuals may want to switch to gel-based products and include a light sunscreenmake-up/ powder with sun-blocking and brushed powder with oil-absorbing properties 7.

4.1. Assessing Individual Skincare Needs

Further, the importance of an effective skincare regimen tailored to individual skin types is outlined. Individuals must begin by taking a granular, detailed look at the biological, genetic, environmental, behavioural, and health-related components of their skin.

Descriptive ingredients—such as dry, dull, hyperpigmented, etc.—can help create a personalised skincare routine that will best suit an individual’s needs. For instance, oily skin will generally require different products than dry skin.

Every person has a unique set of conditions that require differentiated skincare solutions. This foundation will form the basis of the analysis done in subsequent sections that will measure how three different skincare companies are meeting skincare needs across various criteria 1.

4.2. Building a Daily Skincare Regimen

A daily skincare regimen with clearly established targets could allow for consistent and accurate management of skincare needs. The first key consideration in constructing an individual regimen involves determining the appropriate types and methods of active chemical agent application based on the individual’s respective skin chemistry.

Before any topical application is made, it is essential to assess an individual’s skin needs via either a descriptive analysis of the skin composition (i.e., Lipid Composition Test) or general clinical classifications of skin type. An appropriate mix of topical products should then be determined based on target skin parameters (e.g., oiliness, sensitivity) uncovered in the skin chemistry analysis.

In situations where individual products are specifically indicated, such as a specified pathogenic affliction (i.e., acne, dermatitis), further refinement may be needed regarding the concentration and method of application of active chemical agents 1.

The second consideration in constructing a daily regimen involves ensuring the physical compatibility of the individual skincare products selected. The maximum efficacy of applied chemical agents is often dependent either upon the order of application on the skin or upon the characteristics of the subsequent topicals selected (e.g., pH, time gap between application).

Finally, to ensure proper adherence to the regimen, it is important to consider behaviours and factors that may inhibit consistency of implementation (e.g., type of individual lifestyle, geographic demographic). Daily skincare regimens ultimately provide one of the greatest beauties towards which a person can strive.

Also Read: Effective Methods for Removing Dark Spots on the Face

5. The Future of Skincare: Innovations and Trends

The skincare landscape is an ever-evolving and dynamic environment. Emerging innovations and trends in ingredients, product efficacy, and technology are being discovered, creating a variety of exciting opportunities for the future.

The demand for scientific knowledge is higher than ever before and has resulted in a new generation of cosmetic chemists who are equipped to transfer their knowledge through educational opportunities like skincare boot camps 1.

In turn, it will affect the type of new formulations being produced, expected results, and how products are marketed and sold to consumers. There is a collective choice to embrace and advocate for scientific knowledge in the protection of public health and safety 3.

With the rapid growth of the internet and social media, the skincare market is becoming increasingly competitive. In an effort to catch the attention of consumers, brands are being more creative and thoughtful about the textures and tools used in applications.

Novel and unique textures are being made with an emphasis on providing sensory experiences through appealing scents, creative packaging, textures, and innovative ways of application. To differentiate themselves from competitors, brands are focusing on creating unique experiences for consumers. With the emergence of evermore innovative formulations and products, consumer education is key.

References:

1. Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. 2016. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

2. Callejon S, Giraud F, Larue F, Buisson A, et al., Impact of Leave-on Skin Care Products on the Preservation of Skin Microbiome: An Exploration of Ecobiological Approach. 2023. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

3. Md Kasim R, Ridzuan Nordin M. Applications Of Science And Technology In Malaysian Cosmetic Industry. 2006. [PDF]

4. Firooz A, Sadr B, Babakoohi S, Sarraf-Yazdy M et al. Variation of Biophysical Parameters of the Skin with Age, Gender, and Body Region. 2012. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

5. Igarashi T, Nishino K, K. Nayar S. The Appearance of Human Skin. 2005. [PDF]

6. He X, Gao X, Guo Y, Xie W. Research Progress on Bioactive Factors against Skin Aging. 2024. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

7. Sfriso R, Egert M, Gempeler M, Voegeli R et al. Revealing the secret life of skin ‐ with the microbiome you never walk alone. 2020. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov